Waterville Ice Climbing

[The following is an excerpt from the as-yet-unreleased Woodstock/Waterville Climbing Guidebook by Lee Hansche and Jay Knower. All relevant disclaimers apply–we are not responsible for incorrect or missing info or for the safety of users of this guide.]

The majority of the ice climbing in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire is moderate, almost all falling into the WI2-4 range, but there are exceptions. The Russell Pond area has the potential for some harder routes, and who knows what else is hiding in the hills? Cone Mountain, Fletchers Cascade and Russell Crags will offer ample opportunity for practice for budding leaders, and there are many areas where setting up a toprope is quick and easy as well.  

It is likely that the more consistent lines have been explored as generations of local alpinists searched out practice grounds. On rock it is typically easier to identify signs of passage such as scarred rock, bail gear, cut trees etc. Ice, on the other hand, can leave zero trace. For that reason we will not include first ascent information in this section.   

Jay Knower on Fletcher’s Cascade. Photo by Sam Johansson

Fletcher’s Cascade

The only previously cataloged ice climbing area in Waterville Valley. New England Ice Climbing Guide makes a brief mention of it, but that publication vastly undersold the quality of the area. This area offers long moderate ice climbing in a beautiful spot, as well as a 40-foot wall of steeper more technical ice than you will find on the main waterfalls. Because it faces due north at a higher elevation, this area forms early in the season.  

Approach: Park at the Drakes Brook/Sandwich Mountain parking area off Hwy 49, just outside of the town of Waterville. Head left out of the parking lot up the old logging road. Instead of crossing the river on the Drake’s Brook Trail, continue on the road as it cuts away from the river, until you can see your next right. Take this trail, aptly named the Fletcher’s Cascade trail, to the base area. It’s about a mile and half from the lot.  

Torie Kidd climbing at Fletcher’s Cascade. Photo by Lee Hansche

Base Area  

As you arrive at Fletcher’s you will hike up below Feline Flow, which is the right hand of the stream flows. To the left of that you will see some boulder-problem height ice and through the trees on the left of that is the main event, Fletcher’s Cascade.  

1. Fletcher’s Cascade WI2+ ****

Fletcher’s is a 50’-wide frozen waterfall, so there are many methods of ascension. The path of least resistance goes right up the center. A more challenging distinct variation runs up the right hand side. After the 50’ tall steeper section, you will be looking up at a roughly 500’ frozen stream. Belay from trees on one side or the other. Rappel, scramble off through the woods or continue the adventure up the stream for a few more easy pitches and an amazing view. Just before the final bulge near the top it is possible to break right into the woods at a faint trail to find the Hidden Flows and the best walk-off.  

2. Ice Boulders WI3-5 *

The smaller ice formations between the two streams might not seem worthwhile to some but we find them to be a nice little practice area. A collection of 15-20 foot mini routes. A slab on left, a hanging pillar in the middle, and depending on conditions, steep mixed climbing on the right. In a good season this whole section can form into one short, wide vertical flow.  

3. Feline Flow WI2 ***

This is the stream flow on the right hand side of the Base Area. Choose one of the numerous ways to tackle the initial steeper bulge, then a low-angle ramp leads you up the stream above. Belay from trees or rocks. You may rappel the route with a 70m rope or thrash off to the right through the woods.  

The Hidden Flows 

Way up in the woods between the two main flows, there is a 40’ tall mini-crag which holds perhaps the best ice climbs at Fletcher’s. To get there, climb the main flow up Fletcher’s Cascade for about three long pitches (mostly low-angle ice or snow walking) until just before the final steep bulge. Exit the streambed to climber’s right via a fairly obvious small trail. Walk into the woods and if you are in the right spot you will see the icy cliff right away. Earlier in the season this holds maybe four distinct lines. As the ice fattens up the routes become less distinct. Names are unknown for most of these routes but they most certainly have been climbed regularly over the years. After a session here you can head to the right and bank downhill, roughly following a small frozen stream and hooking around to the Base Area on climber’s right.  

1. Hidden Curtain WI4 **

Climb the curtain of ice on the left side of the cliff to a slab that leads to the trees. A few different options with varying difficulty.  

2. Hidden Corner WI3+ **

To the right of the previous line, you will see an appealing flow of ice coming from a corner high on the route. A technical challenge and interesting movement. Climb up low-angle ice. Move left onto the steeper terrain and up into the corner. Anchor to the convenient tree to your right as you top out. When conditions are fat the rock may be completely obscured.  

3. Dixie Chicken WI3 ***

On the right side of this mini crag you will see an obvious ridge of ice. Though it looks a bit steep, it climbs comfortably with weight on your feet most of the way. Anchor to the tree on the left as you reach the top.  

Lee Hansche on Dixie Chicken. Photo by Torie Kidd