Best of the “A-Grades”
Here at CNHCA we are committed to helping climbers achieve their goals. From maintaining epic, safe routes to discussing beta in the parking lot, we strive to make your experience as successful and stimulating as possible.
We know more than anyone how exciting it is to push your grade and level up your techniques and strength, and nothing feels better than entering a new number grade. 10d to 11a? 12d to 13a? There’s plenty of friendly-to-project routes in central New Hampshire to achieve your next step in climbing. To show how diverse and incredible Merriam Woods is in particular, I’ve stacked together a list of “first of the grades” all within 100 feet of each other.
Of course there is no secret passage or cheat code to bumping up in grades, and style and strengths are very dependent, but among the many I’ve pin pointed a few that could get you to where you want to be.
Moonstripe - 5.10a
Merriam woods climbing at its finest. A few bolts of easy slab climbing brings you to a good rest while you contemplate the steep wall above. Gaining the vertical face is the crux, involving a sequential boulder problem with safe falls. Once the crux is through you are rewarded with airy, juggy climbing that is sure to leave you smiling. But don’t lose focus, it’s not over till you’re at the chains high above the valley!
5.11a - Half Shell Heroes
Although slightly under vertical, this thing climbs like a dreamy face climb should. Good edges and crimp strength will help you big time on this epic journey. A few bolts of enjoyable slab climbing ends at a break where the crux begins. Use your bag of tricks to make it through a shallow corner and to the upper face. The last several bolts are as good as Merriam gets where endurance on somewhat easier ground trumps exact sequences.
5.12a - October Surprise
So you’ve built your pyramid and think you’re strong enough to enter into the world of 5.12s. October Surprise is an excellent choice of a project in that it doesn’t have any shut down moves, it just requires some experienced thinking and experienced tendons. It’s about as difficult from top to bottom, and some critical thinking can uncover a good rest along the way. The rock resembles vertical limestone climbing and is an impressive tick for anyone strong enough to gain passage. Plus, you can wave at the person on Moonstripe and remember the day you sent your first 10a!
5.13a - Astral Weeks
Alright, now you’re not just technically proficient but you’re also mutantly strong. 12d just isn’t scratching the itch anymore. It’s time for you to start working Astral Weeks. Sitting atop the hill among the other routes listed you’ll find this classic. Some easy climbing brings you to the lengthy crux where you’ll be demanded to apply your strength, technique, and determination as you find your way to the arete and figure out what the heck to do with it. After the crux the climbing eases off and you can enjoy an airy victory romp to the anchors.
Well there you have it folks, a complete guide to help you break into a new grade. Feel free to reach out to CNHCA for any and all beta, as we love to nerd out on that stuff.
Climb on!