10 Best Climbs Outside of Merriam Woods
Sure, Merriam Woods takes the majority of the focus, but there’s great climbing throughout our region. Here’s one board member’s list of the 10 best climbs outside of Merriam:
1. Swordfighter 5.12a, bolts, Osceola High Camp
It’s guarded by a two-mile approach, but those who brave the hike will be rewarded with perfect granite stemming up a beautiful corner. Low in the grade, but don’t blow the final crux right below the anchors! Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
2. Horcrux 5.13d, bolts, Dickie Ledge
Lee Hansche’s tour-de-force and the hardest pitch in the area. More stemming, but this time without many discernible holds. Hard for the grade, and yet to see a third ascent.
3. Hoagies and Grinders, 5.11c, bolts, Y-Crag, Russell Forest
The 5.11 version of Rumney’s Lonesome Dove, this climbs a slabby prow. The start is the crux but expect the climbing to tax your brain more than your forearms, all the way to the anchors.
4. The Crows Have Eyes, 5.7, bolts, Schist Creek
Accessible climbing at an accessible grade in an accessible location. What’s not to love? Great rock and unique cruxes characterize this pitch.
5. Waterville Crack 5.9 (5.5 r) gear and bolts, Osceola High Camp
Perhaps the best crack in the region, except that it’s guarded by a face-climbing start and slab crux finish. But the middle is amazing.
6. No Hard Feelings, 5.12a, bolts, Yellowjacket Crag
Technical granite sport climbing at its best. Start with a crux, but keep your wits together when the cliff rounds off and becomes slabby.
7. Stone Frogs Don’t Eat, 5.10c, gear, Glacial Park
Glacial Park is a hidden crag with maybe the best crack climbing in the region. And Stone Frogs is the best crack on the cliff. Dust off your jamming skills before you get on this one.
8. Sex on the Beach, 5.11b, bolts, Dickie Ledge
Dickie Ledge holds the slabbiest slab in an area known for them, and Sex on the Beach climbs up the left side of it. Expect weight calf-burning smearing for a really long way. At least it’s well bolted!
9. Gypsy Cafe Crack, 5.11+, gear, Yellowjacket Crag
No trad circuit is complete without a stop at the Gypsy Cafe Crack. Named after the venerable establishment in Lincoln, this crack is wide and unrelenting. Requirements: big cams and a willingness to suffer.
10. Dirk Wiggler,
5.12a, bolts,
Y-Crag, Russell Forest
The Wiggler is the most famous hold in the area and allows passage up a beautiful cliff on the right side of Y-Crag. If you master this route, try a harder one to the right, or get creative with linkups on this nicely overhanging wall.
Yeah, we know, some of the climbs do not have photos…you’ll just have to go see them for yourself.
Have you got a better list? Let us know!